Wandering Scotland: A Visit to Orkney

Orkney has long been on our list of places to explore. The islands feel set apart, quiet, full of history, and shaped by the sea. We crossed the Pentland Firth to discover a landscape rich with ancient sites, coastal walks, and stories that span thousands of years. It is a place where time feels stretched out, and even the wind seems to carry a bit of the past with it.

Skara Brae

A 5,000-Year-Old Dream Fulfilled

This one had been a long time coming.

Ever since learning about Skara Brae in school, I’ve wanted to see it in person. Fourteen-year-old me would have been thrilled, and honestly, I still was.

Skara Brae is a Neolithic village believed to be older than both the Pyramids and Stonehenge. It was hidden under sand dunes for centuries until a storm in 1850 revealed part of the site. What remains today is incredibly well preserved. The stone homes still have beds, shelves, and hearths, small details that make it easier to imagine what life might have been like here more than 5,000 years ago.

From an architectural persepective it was exciting to see the layout of these 5000 year old homes. The beds where built into the walls and arranged around the fire at the centre of the home. The focal point of the home was a stone hearth that may have been used for storage and displaying treasures. It was interesting to see that the homes all had a similar layout which was also similar to the other prehistoric villages around Orkney.  

People often call it Scotland’s Pompeii because of how well it has survived. It is compact, well laid out, and has a surprisingly human feel to it. Real hobbit vibes, too.

Kitchener Memorial and Museum

War, Loss, and Remembrance

The Kitchener Memorial stands at Marwick Head, overlooking the sea where HMS Hampshire sank in 1916. The ship had left Scapa Flow, carrying Lord Kitchener, Britain’s Secretary of State for War, on a diplomatic mission to Russia. Just two hours into the journey, it hit a German mine and sank in rough seas. Over 700 men were on board. Only 12 survived.

There is a quiet atmosphere here. The cliffs are high and exposed, with seabirds nesting in the grass and waves crashing below. Across the water you can see Hoy in the distance. The memorial includes the names of those lost. I noticed two Johnstons listed, John and James. One from Orkney, the other from Liverpool. Probably not related, but it still stood out.

It is also a good walk, though we kept a close eye on the girls and the dog near the edge. The walk to the Kitchener Memorial starts off at the RSPB Scotland Marwick Head Nature Reserve. As an added bonus after you have completed this walk you can meander in the opposite direction where you will come across the Fisherman's Hut's located near a secluded pebbled beach cove overlooking the North Sea which was a peaceful place to take some time to reflect. 

Broch of Gurness:

Iron Age Ingenuity by the Sea

Located on the northwest coast of Orkney’s Mainland, the Broch of Gurness is one of the best-preserved Iron Age villages in Scotland. Built somewhere between 500 and 200 BC, the central structure is a circular stone tower, or broch, likely used as a fortified home for an important local family.

Around the broch are the remains of smaller houses, storage spaces, and protective ditches. Over the years, the site changed and was used well into the Pictish and Norse periods. You can still walk through the layout of the old village and get a sense of its structure and scale.

The houses at Broch of Gurness displayed a similar layout to the houses at Skara Brae which was an interesting revelation. To be able to walk around this village, allows you to immerse yourself within the site and get a real feel for what life must have been like back then. 

The views across Eynhallow Sound add to the experience, peaceful and open, with just the sound of birds and water nearby.

Ring of Brodgar:

Stone, Sky, and Ceremony

The Ring of Brodgar is a large Neolithic stone circle set between two lochs. Built around 2500 BC, it once had 60 standing stones. Today, 36 remain, some standing over four metres tall.

The site may have been used for rituals, seasonal gatherings, or astronomical observation. No one knows for sure, and that mystery adds to its interest.

The location itself is part of what makes it memorable. It is open and exposed, surrounded by water and hills. There is no visitor centre or heavy signage, just a path and a low fence, which helps keep the focus on the stones and the setting.

The Ring of Brodgar is in close to proximity to the Standing Stones of Stenness, The Barnhouse Settlement and the Maeshowe Chambered Cairn so this small area of land is steeped in neolithic history, all nestled among the rural houses, roads and farmland. With everything so accessible and relatively quiet if you time it right, you really feel you can absorb the details and atmosphere of these very special moment in time and history.  

Other Places Worth Seeing

If you are planning a trip, here are a few other places to explore:

• Maeshowe Chambered Cairn
  A Neolithic tomb that lines up with the setting sun at the winter solstice. Inside, there is Viking graffiti from over 800 years ago, some of it surprisingly cheeky.

• St Magnus Cathedral, Kirkwall
  Built in the 1100s by Norse earls, this sandstone cathedral is still in use today. It is calm and impressive inside, with plenty of local history on display.

• Italian Chapel, Lamb Holm
  Created by Italian prisoners of war during the Second World War. They used scrap materials to build a small, detailed chapel inside two Nissen huts.

• Yesnaby Cliffs
  A rugged stretch of coastline west of Stromness, with sea stacks, blowholes, and dramatic views. Great for a short walk and some fresh air.

Final thoughts…

Orkney is full of places that encourage you to slow down and take things in. It is not just about the landmarks, but the space and quiet that stay with you. If you enjoy history, walking, and being by the sea, it is well worth a visit.